PUTTING: Pace and Length

by Bob Andrew

Two main factors come into play on every putt: speed and break. Good putting combines the two. More attention is usually given to figuring out the break than then the speed. With greens generally becoming faster (and trickier) all the time, determining the correct blend of speed and break is more challenging then ever.

Most golfers will spend all their time in lining up a putt, determining just what the break will be, and then letting "instinct" guide them as to speed. More relative attention should be given to speed. Most golfers will visualize the line their putts will take and then try to fit their speed to follow that path. Rather visualize backwards from the hole, seeing the correct speed at the drop. If it's downhill and fast, for example, you want the ball to drop gently over the front edge, to avoid overshooting the hole too far if you miss. After visualizing the drop and its speed, then visualize the line the ball had to travel to arrive at the hole with just the right pace.

There are three general speeds at the time of the ball drop into the hole:

1. The Topple
The topple - gently dropping into the hole - has the advantage of effectively making the hole larger. Because the ball is traveling slowly by that time, it can catch the side of the hole and still fall in - on breaking putts, it can almost fall into the back of the hole. Conservative putters sometimes use the topple exclusively as a way of cutting down on three-putting a green. The disadvantage of the topple is that they can stop short of the hole and miss even if online; they also can be knocked off line more easily, so there are fewer one-putts.

The topple is best used when:
The greens are smooth, slick and fast.
The putt is downhill.
You face a long putt, and two-putting is your goal.
You're putting with the grain (in the direction the grass is growing).
The putt breaks severely.

2. The Rattle
This is the most common putt for the pros and has no built-in disadvantage other than ability.

With the Rattle, the ball skims over the front edge of the hole and strikes the liner on the opposite side of the cup. This is generally regarded as the optimum speed for most putts. Rattle speed is achieved when the ball "hugs" the line to the hole. Putters often discover the Rattle when they are trying to do the Topple, but the roll is so pure, the ball goes farther than expected. Quite obvious when you think about it; an inconsistent golfer will putt further when the stroke is the most directly aimed.

The Rattle is best used when:

  • Flat non-breaking putts.
  • Any putt where your confidence is high.
  • Pressure putts you feel you have to make.
  • Fast putts, when you don't fear the possibility of a three-foot come-backer.

3. The slam
The Slam is the hallmark of bold, confident putters such as Tiger Woods. The ball is struck so firmly it crashes against the dirt on the far side of the hole, sometimes popping into the air before diving into the cup. The Slam diminishes the amount of break and therefore simplifies your reads. The slam is the necessary choice on especially slow greens. The disadvantages are more (greater risk for greater reward) - heartbreaking lip-outs, putts that cruise dismayingly far past the hole, and the inconsistency of having two styles of putts when you're forced to gear back to a slower speed.

The Slam is best used when:

  • The putt is short, with minimal break.
  • You're putting uphill and need to make it.
  • The surface is slow.
  • You're putting into the grain.
  • The greens are wet, haven't been mowed or have recently been top-dressed.

As you choose from these three speeds listed above, be sure to practice with the visualization technique described, and you can improve your putting on every surface. You will one-putt more often and three-putt a lot less.

Common Putting Speed Troubleshooting

The fault: Handsy stroke means no control

  • Poor speed control results when accelerating the club with your wrists instead of your arms and shoulders. The putter head passes your hands through impact, adding loft to the face, causing the ball to hop and skid before rolling. The putt's speed (and resultant length) is inconsistent.

The fix:

  • Turn putter upside down.
    The natural force in unwanted wrist movement is your reaction to the weight of the putter head. Sensing its weight you try to apply a little "help" with your hands, losing the correct putting stroke. Try this: Turn your putter upside down and make a practice stroke. You'll likely not use your wrists, since you're no longer responding to weight at the end of the shaft.

The result:

  • Wrist-free stroke imparts pure roll. As you make the practice stroke with the putter turned upside down, use your arms and shoulders only. Your left wrist shouldn't hinge. See how the proper wrist angle has remained constant? Now hold the putter normally maintain the same wrist angle, duplicating the practice action. You've eliminated unwanted hand action and imparted the pure roll necessary to make your putts roll into the hole. That's the correct stroke with which to build a winning golf game.

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